Fodor's Hong Kong 2001: Completely Updated Every Year, Smart Travel Tips from A to Z, Pull-Out Color Map (Travel Guide) - Softcover

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Destination: Hong Kong

When you fly to Hong Kong, try to get a window seat, as the landing will take your breath away.

When the plane begins its descent, you will probably still be out over the gray South China Sea. As you approach the coast of China, you'll see a few small, rocky islands, tiny fishing boats, and sailboats in the channels leading into Hong Kong Harbour -- the most spectacular harbor in the world.

Hong Kong is Cantonese for "fragrant harbor," a name inspired either by the incense factories that once dotted Hong Kong Island or by the profusion of scented pink Bauhinias, the national flower (whose representation has recently replaced colonial insignias). Beneath the modern veneer of skyscrapers and high fashion, Hong Kong is deeply rooted in ancient Chinese traditions -- more so, in many ways, than China, which destroyed much of its heritage over the three decades following the Communist revolution. For these reasons, the Hong Kong Chinese feel a mixture of pride and wariness about unity with the mainland.

Hong Kong is a dazzling melee of human life and enterprise. From the harbor the city's latest architectural wonders stand against a green-mountain backdrop, while on the other side of the island beaches and quieter villages slow the pace considerably. Moving clockwise, beginning with the harbor districts, Western and Central are two of the liveliest areas, full of markets, other shopping, restaurants, businesses -- you name it. South of these, Midlevels, with its agglomeration of apartment towers, and Victoria Peak rise above the din of downtown. Wanchai, the next district east, was once of ill repute but now the preferred locale for an upscale night on the town. After that is Causeway Bay, another shopping haven. North Point is on the northeast corner; its principal tourist offerings are a market and a ferry pier. Shek O lies at a distant remove on the southeastern peninsula, a pleasant village with a beach for an afternoon's escape.

There are splendid beaches all over the area, some of which are well maintained by the government and served by lifeguards. Repulse Bay is a sort of Chinese Coney Island. Around the corner is the smaller and less crowded Deep Water Bay; Turtle Coveis isolated and beautiful; Shek O's Big Wave Bay has a Mediterranean feel; and among New Territory and Outlying Island beaches, Pak Sha Chau has lovely golden sands, while Lo Sho Ching is popular with local families.

Hong Kong has the best shopping in the world, if you work at it. Although the thought of crowded streets, mind-boggling choices, and endless haggling can be daunting, no place makes big spending easier than this center of international commerce. Even self-declared nonshoppers are tempted to part with their money, and some have admitted to enjoying the experience. The variety of goods is astonishing: international designer products, expensive treasures, handcrafted folk items from all over Asia. Just as remarkable is the physical array of places to shop, from sophisticated boutique-lined malls to open-air markets and shadowy alleyways.